December 30th - A Day of Relaxation

Today was a lazy day and there is not that much to report.  The plan is quite simple today.  No rushing around or sightseeing.  Just taking in the beauty that is bestowed in front of me.
My flight departs Taveuni for Nadi at 5:00pm.  So I have a full day to relax and, of course, squeeze in a Fijian massage. The price US was about $50.00 for a full hour and to top it off on the beach.

Marika was kind enough to take me to the airport. A relative of his passed away and the funeral services are on Saturday.  His wife and other children have already left to go to the village where the services will be held.  He really should have let me find other transportation but that would not have been his character.  I find out later that a Fijian funeral is a big deal and rich with traditional customs. I was told they would kill a cow and share it with the villagers.  On the Internet I read " traditional funerary customs include gift-giving, feasting, kava drinking, and observance of mourning restrictions. Favoring burial over cremation, they also erect elaborate and colorful cloth decorations over their graves."

Well, enough of that detail.  I arrive at the airport only to discover that my flight is delayed.  This is not unusual I learn from the manager of the Garden Island Resort.  He is there to pick up guests and has experienced this on multiple occasions. Without a car, I succumb to waiting it out and hoping the plane arrives. The upside is that I was able to chat it up with Mark and learn more about his family, living in Fiji, etc.  He's a great connection for Taveuni.

The plane finally arrives at 6:30 pm. Interestingly enough, I am not pissed off.  I  have nowhere to be and time on my hands.  It's Fijian time.  Island time. 

I have now arrived in Nadi and have checked into the Westin.  I regret ever leaving Taveuni. I didn't know what I had until I left it behind. Nadi is everything I read about on Trip Advisers.  A stopover for the outer islands.  If anyone just stays in Nadi, they have missed what the Fijian Islands are all about.  Not to say there are not nice places to go once you get out of the main town.  But the real experience is the outer islands.   Of course, if you prefer a lot of nightlife, lots of tourists and murky water then by all means stay in the Nadi area.  My sarcasm at its finest.  The Westin did upgrade me to an oceanfront room and the room is clean and pleasant.  So I am really not complaining...I just want to go back to Taveuni where its lets populated, peaceful, rugged and exquisitely beautiful.

Pati

Fantasy Island - Boss "The Plane The Plane"

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Thursday Dec 29th 2012 - A Trip to the Cattle/Horse Ranch

Oh my goodness.  What an adventure today.  Marika and his two daughter Asenaca and Meme picked me up around 10:00am to begin our tour to the other side of the island. Our first stop was to look at a residential developement called Taveuni Estates.  The location is spectacular with the most breathtaking views of the ocean and sunsets.  I saw two outstanding lots of an acre each for around $103,000US.  Only two beachfront lots exist for $500-600,000 based  on their location.  Very tempting.  You can build a home for about $200,000 subject to what you are looking to build.  Associations dues for maintaining roads, etc.  is $1,000US per year.
Anyone interested in putting a partnership together??  hmmmm

We left the developement and headed to our final destination, the cattle ranch.  The trip was enhanced by Marika taking the scenic coastal route.  It was, of course, a dirt road (you need a truck, jeep and four wheel drive) bumpy and fun.  I felt like I was in an Indiana Jones movie.  The coastline is rugged but dotted with unspoiled beaches and rich with vegetation.  I did my best to capture the scenery. 

The drive was probably close to 45 minutes, but we finally reach the 1500 acre ranch.  I am introduced to Marcus who runs the ranch with his father.  Our timing was amazing.  The ranch has about 1,000 head of cattle but it also has about 80 wild horses.  A couple has arrived today to buy two horses.  We head over to the coral to observe the ranch hands herd in the horses.  The couple narrow their selection to three horses which are herded into a smaller corral.  They pick the two that they want for their boys.  The rest was hard to watch.  These horses have been wild so they have never been touched or had a rope around their neck.  I had mixed emotions as they roped the horses for the first time.  I know they would be trained and the boys would love their animals.  But at the same time, I wanted them to break free and be free!  Just like me.. free!  The worst part was watching them hogtie the horses.  This was necessary because they were boarding a boat to cross the strait to another island.  I told  the owner take good care of the horses.  He probably thought I was nuts but assured me they would be well cared for.  After the spectacle is over we head back.  I rest for the balance of the day and meet Marika and his daughter for dinner.  We had some great pizza overlooking the azure ocean. 

As we left the restaurant, I looked up at the sky.  The stars were amazingly bright and filled the sky. Then I peered out at the ocean and watched the cresent moon shimmer across the water.  It was a fine way to end the day. 

The wild horses

The dirt road we travelled on to the cattle/horse ranch

The Catholic Church outside of town

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Wednesday Dec 28th - A Tour to the Waterfalls

Today Marika and his eldest daughter Asenaca (she is 18) pick me up to visit the waterfalls.  There is one main road on Tavueni.  The road does not go all around the island nor is it paved all the way.  The journey to the waterfall is a beautiful but long drive.  I guess it may of taken us at least 1 1/2 hours. The area is unspoiled, undeveloped and inhabited only by the local native villagers.  After we pass the small development occupied by expats, it is nothing but tropical jungle and small settlements of the local natives.

We pass a small group of boys that have sarongs on.  Asenaca informs me that these boys have been recently circumcised.  They are headed to the ocean to help with the healing.  The culture here is to circumcise between the ages of 6-8 and in some cases as old as 10. 

We arrive in Lavena which is where the road ends and where we start our coastal walk to Wainibau Falls. This three-mile (one way) hike passes through the village of Lavena, and after a steep climb at the end, emerges the Wainibau Falls. You can jump in the river and swim up to the falls.  And, if you are brave enough hike up to the top of the falls and jump into the pool of water. The trail hugs the coast for a considerable distance where there are several fine, secluded beaches. The Return to the Blue Lagoon was filmed in this area.

It is the rainy side of the island and we encounter the warm tropical rain as we get deeper into the hillside.  Is was invigorating!  The closer we get to the waterfall, the more it begins to rain.  I learn that this is their rainy/hurricane season.  High season with sunshine all the time is April through July. By the time we finish the hike, I am drenched.  It was well worth it.  Both Asenaca and I are starved.  She missed breakfast and says she could eat a whole chicken.  I had breakfast, and I could eat a half a chicken.  We stop at Audrey's Bakery who is an expat from Sacramento and bakes for a living.  She settled here 23 years ago.  I guess her age to be early 70's now.  I learned about her from Brother Jack.  We make this our final stop as there is no roadside restaurant to grab a bite.  A little desert will work to reward us for a good hike.  It was fabulous...chocolate coconut bars and pineapple coconut cake!  Yum Yum for the Tum Tum.

Enjoy the photos

The dirt road leading us to Lavena

Kids carring taro root on the coastal path

Me and Asenaca crossing the suspension bridge - no more than 10 persons at one time

Wainibau Falls

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Tuesday, Dec 27th - A Visit to Rabi Island

The adventure begins with a visit to Rabi Island.  Marika had business over on the island so he invited me to jump on board for the ride over.  Before we headed to the boat, we pick up a few of his associates that will be making the trip.  Marika is a church leader with the Morman church.  We pick up Brother Jack and Brother Alfred along with two others. Unfortunately, I have a brain fade on their names.  All are very warm and welcoming.  Brother Jack and his wife are visiting missionaries from Utah.  Their mission is for 18 months and they have been here 15 months.  I am not sure I could spend that amount of time on the island. 

The boat ride is a smooth crossing which takes about 45 minutes.  The boys head off for their meeting and I am left to walk around the island.  With camera in tow, I head down the dirt path to see where it will lead and who I may meet. For some this may be a little unnerving.  But you should look at this as taking a walk around your neighborhood and saying hi or in Figian "Bula" to your fellow neighbors.

There is no stress here or even where I am staying - Taveuni.  The land has been given to the decedents and it is passed down through the generations.  As they grow, their village grows.  They help each other build their respective houses.  So unlike us, there is no mortgage, property tax, etc.  Water is great and plentiful (Fiji water- that's what I drink at home).  You can hook up for a cost of $200.  The island has a generator.  No electricity bill.  There is little to do, so transportation is minimal.  You walk or take the one bus that goes from point A to point B.  As I reflect, I don't recall seeing any cars on Rabi.  In addition, everyone grows fruits and vegetables. The papayas grow wild along the side of the roads and they are free to take.  Imagine that.

I love the laughter of kids and you can't help notice and hearing the commotion of them playing nearby.  These cute kids are playing outside of the villages community center.  As they are playing outside, their parents are inside (the place was packed inside).  I take a peak inside to see what is going on.  They look like they are being schooled so I quietly walk away not to disturb their meeting. 

On the way back from my walk, a couple befriends me and invites me to take a seat on their porch.  They are delighted to converse with me.  From her I learn what is happening at the community center.  The culture, heritage and family decedents are a very important part of their lives.  Every year the different villages host their family reunions. If they have left the island for work, they return for the reunion. It is important that the family members including children know their lineage.  A reunion can be a week long event.  They will sleep in the community center...on the floor or camp on the grounds next to the center.  Wow!  We talk about education and children.  She opens a photo book and shows me pictures of her family.
They wash by hand and line dry their clothes.  I tell her we are very spoiled in America.  She says no you are 'lucky'.  She is right we are lucky.

That evening Marika invites me to his home for dinner.  Their family was so happy to have me.  There was sausage, chicken curry, potatoes, yams, carrots and noodles. They are 'good' people with kind hearts. They tell me to come anytime as they know the food is expensive at the hotel.  They even had offered for me to stay with them.

Dinner at Marika's home. 

About Rabi (pronounced Rambi)
The island is covered with natural vegetation and an abundance of coconut trees. Prior to the Banabans settlement on Rabi in 1945 the island was used as a copra (coconut oil) plantation.

Rabi Island is self-governed by its own elected Council of Leaders and Elders and is a privately owned community within Fiji itself. The language spoken on the island is Gilbertese and the customs and traditions of the Banabans are still practiced today. The Banabans live in four major villages on the protected Fiji side of the island. The four villages and their occupants are the survivors and descendants from the same four villages that were destroyed by the invading Japanese forces back on their homeland island of Banaba/Ocean Island.

Brother Jack, Marika, Brother Alfred

The beautiful children of Rabi

Typical housing

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Arrival - Taveuni Fiji

Dec 24^th, 2011

It’s hard to believe that I am embarking upon a three month journey.  Fiji, New Zealand then Australia.  I spent quality time with my family over Thanksgiving (16 of us), so there is no guilt about missing Christmas.  Strange for some of you I know, but we all should follow our heart which is what I am doing.

The flight to Fiji was almost 11 hours. We departed LAX late so I missed my connection from the main island, Nandi, to Taveuni.  It was a bummer because there are only two flights per day.  One at 6:45am and one at 3:15pm.  I obviously was jet lagged and couldn’t wait to crash.

When I arrive in Taveuni, I was picked up by Marika and his wife.  They are native Figians who were introduced to me by my pal, Harry from my coffee cluck @ Kean.  What a great couple and how blessed am I that Harry made the connection for me. You will learn more about this family later. I am scrabbling to get this blog out as Marika is picking me up at 8am to head to one of the islands.  I am totally in their hands which is very cool.  Have a great day and I will catch up with you later.

The pictures in below.  Garden Island Resort at dusk.  View of my rooom.  Taveuni Airport.  A few of the islands flyin in the peddle jumper from Nandi to Tavueni. These pics ar efrom my cell so no picture link today.

Beautiful Balestrand - June 18-19

I had no idea what to expect in Balestrand.  All I knew is that it was recommended by my reference guide and a good option to get away from the madness of the Norway nutshell.  I make my boat to Balestrand with 15 minutes to spare.  Whew!  The ferry is nicer than expected.  Comfy seats and cabin food service.  I grab a hot chocolate as I was cold heading back from Stigen.  We make a few stops to drop/pick up other passengers.  1 ½ hour later we are docked at Balestrand.  It is a small village that you can walk around in 10 minutes.  The quaintness and beauty of my surroundings entices me to slow down and capture its serenity.  I am staying for two nights and wish I would have stayed for three so I could have ventured on one of the hikes.  This is not a party town.  This is a quite place to reenergize the soul.

I am staying at the Balestrand Hotel.  It is owned and operated by Uni-Mari Kvinke and her family.  Uni-Marie is from this area and has ties to the Kvinke family.  The Kvinke family operates the main hotel in town, The Kvinke hotel.  You can google and learn more about this hotel, if interested. The family lives in the bay area (San Fran) 10 months of the year and comes to Norway for the summer to run their hotel.  The exterior does not grab you, however the interior is warm and inviting and the unobstructed view of the fjord is flawless.  In addition, the family, including their three children, offer outstanding service.

St Olaf's Church stands out in this village. The church was completed in 1897 as a memorial to Margaret Green. Margaret, an English lady, came to the fjords as a tourist to hike the mountains. She met, fell in love with and married Knut Kvikne who was an avid mountain man. Being a very pious woman, she wished for an Anglican church in Balestrand. She started the church with her husband, but died before its completion.  You will see it in the photos.

The following day was spent on a boat ride to Vik to see Hopperstad Stave church.  The stave church is assumed to have been built around 1140 and still stands at its original location.  I understand that similar churches like this were built around Europe, but only the Norwegian ones have survived. Of the approximate 1,000 stave churches, only 28 remain.

Following the visit to Vik, I spent the afternoon tooling about Balestrand.  It was a perfect day to rent a bike, pack a lunch and peddle around the fjord.   I was informed by the hotel, that there was a shooting competition in one area of the mountains and not to be concerned if I heard gunfire.  On the way back, I run into a proud boy who placed first in the competition.  His photo is included for your pleasure.

Enjoy the nature that I attempted to capture.  If you love nature and hiking, consider Balestrand.

Breaking for lunch

A home overlooking the fjord surrounded by wildflowers

Capturing the reflection of the barn in the water

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Fjord Safari Cruise down the Naeroyfjord and finding Stigen

The challenge today is what activities to schedule to maximize my stay in Flam. In addition, I need to get to Stigen.   In a nutshell, here is how it went down and I credit the schedule to Gertrude (who you will meet in the photos).

-          Bus tour to Stagastein Viewpoint -  departs 10am;
-          Fjord Safari Tour which takes you in a RIB (like a zodiac) up the famous Naerofjord.  Depart 12:05.  On the way back to Flam after the tour, they drop me off at the Stigen dock.  As a side note, this is the only way to get to Stigen which is the farm house I am staying at based on a recommendation. 
-          Fjord Safari will pick me up @ 2pm on the way back from one of their excursions so I can catch my boat from Flam to Balestrand at 3:30.

If you come to Norway, the Flam railway and Fjord Safari is a must do.  I loved the smaller crowd of the RIB boat, but if you have any fear of the water there are larger ferries that run the same excursions.

The Naerofjord (small fjord) is a spectacular fjord.  It ‘s the worlds narrowest fjord; 6 miles long and as little as 820 feet wide and 40 feet deep. I am mesmerized by the beauty that surrounds me.  I keep snapping away pictures trying to capture the scenery. Maybe if I am lucky I will get that one great shot. The waterfalls just spill over the mountain cliffs.  Some are small, but there are a few that are quite spectacular.  The water is clear, the forested mountains green and the wildflowers and ferns are lush with vibrant color.  The area is majestic and magically all at the same time.  The clouds roll in and roll out changing the scenery at a flip of a switch.  It doesn’t matter to me that there is light rain, it is beautiful in any weather.

Now for Stigen.  I really did not know what to expect.  All I knew was that this place was special and a must do.  When I get dropped off at the dock, I am a bit concerned.  How in the heck do I reach the farm. It is straight up and I could not see any clear path.  I have no hiking boots or rain gear with the exception of my rain jacket.  It’s wet, drizzling and I am chilled.  Wasn’t someone suppose to meet me here at 2pm and show me the way up? I have a backpack and one overnight bag.  There is no way I can carry both of these up the cliff.  I call my friend at fjord safari to help me track down the owners.  In the meantime, I find shelter at the boat dock. What I have I gotten myself into?  After an hour I finally get connected with the owners.  She is coming to get me.  I later find out that they normally do not get people.  This is considered a hike and it is part of the experience.  You simply put on your backpack and hike up the steep hill.  Are you kidding me?  I could see part of a trail, but certainly not all of it.  She takes my hand luggage and places it in her backpack.  It is the Norwegian way she tells me.  I guess it would be ok if you are prepared, but I wasn’t, especially for this wet weather.  The hike up was a challenge in the wet weather.  My van’s tennies have little traction and I slip and slide a few times.  At one point we use a rope to escalate up.   I will need a drink if I ever reach the top.  At this point, I do not call this fun. I was not prepared!  Hege, who is showing me the way, tells me to continue without her.   She needs to shut off the water and will meet me at the top.  She points to the path. We are past the tough stuff, so I am good.  As I meander my way around, I use some wire fencing at one part to support my climb.  I get an electrical shock.  I figured it was because I was wet from the rain.  I learn later it is an electrical fence to keep the goats out of the farm.  Nice real nice Mishka.

We get to the top and I am relieved.  I made it.  I stand on the farm looking out over this wondrous fjord.  It is spectacular.  But you have to work to get here.  It would be impossible for those overweight, not in shape, afraid of heights or need modern creature comforts.  If you love the outdoors and adventure, this might be a rewarding fit.

Dee, Hege’s husband greets me with a warm welcome.  They have the hot tub ready for me which Dee engineered.  Quite ingenious.  The tub is a stainless steeI milk container from a dairy and the water is heated thru a wood burning system.   I settle into my room quickly so I can hit the hot tub.  Life is good right now as I am sitting in this magnificant environment overlooking the fjord.

Stigen is a B&B and serves as Dee and Hege’s summer house.  There is no electricity.  Water comes filtered straight from the waterfalls.  It tastes great. No parasite risk here.  Water is cold and plentiful. It truly is the best I have ever tasted. Hege has picked lettuce fresh from the garden.  It will be used in our salad tonight.  The elk and deer were hunted by Dee.  He hunts for food not pleasure.  As a side note he is from Missouri and married Hege. 

As you will see from the photos, the bathroom is in common and it is a septic system.   Not the modern convenience of a flush toilet.  If it is occupied you can opt to use the “outhouse”.  There are nine other guests arriving today, so this should be interesting.  I will stick to the inside bathroom.

The farm is a labor of love.  Hege and Dee do a fabulous job and they want to make sure their guest enjoy this unique experience.  The food is awesome and they serve us with genuine warmth.  The evening ends up being a blast with my new found Norwegian friends.  We enjoy our meal and they start singing Norwegian and Irish songs.   We head outside after dinner with wine in tow.  It is friendship, song and enjoyment of the surroundings. It was like camping out and singing songs around a camp fire.  Except we had a solid roof over our head, a gourmet meal and a candlelit latern was our fire.  I hit the hay at 11:30pm and they continued on...

We enjoy breakfast together the next day before we go our separate ways. As they leave, they yell for me and start singing Michele my bell....you know the beatles song. Now that was quite something.

My fellow visitors to Stigen

Naeroyfjord

Making my way down

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Departing Oslo and Arrival in Flam -June 16

Once again an early call. However, this is part of the excursion I have really been looking forward to.  I am so excited I awake @ 4am and can’t go back to sleep.  In addition, the train leaves @ 6:30am and if I miss it I am screwed.

I am off to the subway to catch the train.  Good news is I get on without a hitch.  Bad news is I get off to early and have to walk on the famous cobblestone streets for approximately 10 minutes.  Oh well.  We depart the train station for the 5 hour trip.  It sounds bad, but this is downtime to read, blog and sort through pictures.  Plus you get to see the beautiful countryside.  We make one of the scheduled stops about half-way through the journey.  The train conductor informs us we will all be getting off the train.  What?  This can’t be happening.  What about the infamous train ride on the Flamsbana which I have been dreaming about for months and paid for in advance.   Are you kidding me?  Sure enough we are getting off and being bused to our final destination.  The reason…a fire in a tunnel.  In this region, the mountains are extensive. Therefore, a lot of tunnels exist whether by train or bus.  Obviously, we can’t go through a tunnel if there is a fire.  We fill the bus and head towards Flam.
The countryside as we near Flam is spectacular.  The bus stops for us to take a snapshot as we enter into the valley.  It is breathtaking.  When we get to Flam, you quickly realize (just like my research indicated) that this is a tourist hub where passengers are being picked up and dropped off to their various destinations.  Big passenger ships come and drop off passengers for the day for excursions into the  famous fjords.  About 7pm they all leave and the town is quiet and still.   So basically, it is  literally “nuts” during the day with tourists  scurrying about and “calm and serene” at night after they load up on their respective ships.  And, I learn from the locals that the ships I witnessed aren’t the “big” ones and this flurry of tourist is not near what it will be in peak season (July-August).  I thank my lucky stars that I have avoided the madness of the “peak” season.
After I settle into my quaint hotel, I hit the tourist information center to get a listing of the activities in the area.  In addition, I ask about how I handle getting a refund for my prepaid ticket on the Flamsbana Railway.   Everything works out.  My ticket is honored and they let me ride the train up and back.  I choose the 5:30 departure so that my day tomorrow is free for other activities.  Plus I have to get to Stigen in the afternoon.  The train was great.  This train line is not a cogwheel train- it’s held to the tracks only by steel wheels, though it does have five separate braking systems.   The line is 12 miles long on a scenic high altitude track; goes through 20 tunnels and stops at one of the best waterfalls, Kjosfossen.
Enjoy!

Entering Flam Valley

The Flamsbana Line

kjosfossen Falls

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A Spin Around Oslo – June 14- 15

Arrival in Oslo is not difficult.  But one thing that was strange is that I was not asked for my passport or go through customs.  Here is the deal.  Norway, Sweden and Denmark are part of the Scandanvian countries.  You need a passport if you enter outside these countries but not for traveling within these countries.  Next adventure is to purchase my Flytoget train ticket at the kiosk.  This is a cinch and off I go.

Now finding my hotel was a bit of a different animal.  When you exit a station, the first thing of importance, is what street to exit.  So when in doubt ask.  I was told to exit the Karl Johans Gate, go through the park and I will see the hotel.  I happily exit with my directions and meander through the park.  I see tons of people and hotels but not mine.  I ask a passerby for additional direction.  Well just like the other cities I have visited there is more than one park.  I was to go through the park by the Royal Palace, not the esplanade.  I had to back track wheeling my luggage on the beautiful cobble stone streets.  It’s a love and hate relationship with the cobblestones.  Romantic, historic and pleasing to the eye, but a pain in the booty to transport luggage.  Remember ladies, when you travel abroad less is more!

Ok, I am checked in and have a plan based on my consult with the concierge. Below is a glance of the spin in Oslo.

A ride on the T-band (Tram Car) to Frognerseteren, which takes you into the forested hills of the city. 

Dinner at Frognerseteren Restaurnant – Famous for Roasted Rudolph .  No, I dodn’t have Roudolph again.

A visit to the Holmenkollen Ski Jump – Hollemkollen has hosted many championships including the 1952 Winter Olypmics.  In order to have the privilege of hosting the 2011 World Championships, Oslo agreed to build a bigger jump to match the newer ones.  It was impressive as you will see from the photos.

A tour through the neighborhood of Bygdoy followed by a visit to the Viking Museum.  I utilize the public transportation to get me there and back.  Bus over and the ferry back. The trip to the Viking Museum was a fascinating.  The ships were discovered in three large burial mounds where they had been buried to serve as vessels for their rich owners final journey to the realm of the dead.

The Oseberg Ship was built around 820AD and was used as a burial ship for a powerful woman and her maidservant in 834AD.  The ship is constructed from oak timbers and is 21.5 metres long and 5 metres wide.  The ship was fully manned with a crew of 32 men, including the helmsman and the lookout. In the burial chamber, two dead woman were laid out in a ready-made bed.  The ship also had a collection of burial gifts for the use in the life hereafter; three sledges, a wagon, five carved animal heads, five beds and the skeletons of 12 horses.

The Tune Ship was the first Viking Ship to be discovered and it is exhibited as it was found. It is built of oak and dates back to about 900AD.   It is thought that the Tune ship was a fast, ocean-going vessel.

The Gokstad was built around 890AD and used as a burial ship for a chieftain around 900AD.  The ship is about 23 metres long and about 5 metres wide, and it was equipped with 32 shields on each side, painted alternately in gold and black.  In the burial chamber lay the body of a man in his 40’s.

A tour through the town which includes the Aker Brygge harbor front, City Hall and a walk through Frogner Park.  The City Hall was finished in 1950 after WWII.  Norway’s leading artists contributed to the murals and statues.  The art implies a classless society, showing everyone working together in harmony for a better society.  Frogner Park is a 75 acre park that contains a lifetime of work by Norway’s greatest sculptor, Gustav Vigeland.  The sculptor worked on-site from 1924- 1943 designing 192 bronze and granite statue groupings – 600 figures in all, each nude and unique.  Some call it the porno park.  You decide. 

Now off to bed as I have a 6:30am train departure to Flam which is nestled in the spectacular Norwegian Fjords.

The Viking Museum - Oseberg Ship

The park within the Bygdoy neighborhood

One of the murals at City Hall

Young children enjoying Frogner Park

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Goodbye Stockholm

Stockholm makes me feel alive.  There is a mix of old and new.  It is cosmopolitan but rich in history and culture.  Today, I decide to nourish my soul with my immediate surroundings.  No rush to be anywhere at any time.  I wander about enjoying the landscape, waterfront and historical buildings that cross my path.  I ponder venturing over to the Vasa Museum.  It was one of the recommendations from Peppe, but I wonder whether I am on attraction overload.  Then the other side of my brain takes over and whispers,  “you will regret not going”.  So off I go.  The Vasa Gods must have been watching over me as I arrive just in time for the English speaking tour.

A replicate of the Vasa warship

Here is the brief history.  I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story. 

On 10 August 1628, Captain Söfring Hansson ordered Vasa to set sail on its maiden voyage to the naval station at Älvsnabben. The day was calm, and the only wind was a light breeze from the southwest. The ship was towed along the waterfront to the southern side of the harbor, where three sails were set, and the ship made way to the east. The gun ports were open, and the guns were out to fire a salute as the ship left Stockholm. Finally the great ship had begun its voyage.
After Vasa emerged from the lee of the city, a gust of wind filled its sails, and it heeled suddenly to port. The sheets were cast off, and the ship slowly righted herself as the gust passed. Soon another gust came, which again forced the ship onto its port side, this time causing water to flow through the open lower gun ports. The incoming rush of water caused Vasa to heel further, and it sank to a depth of 105 ft and only 390 ft from shore. Survivors clung to debris to save themselves, and many nearby boats rushed to their aid, but despite these efforts and the short distance to land, 30 to 50 people perished with the ship, according to reports. The flags and the tops of the main and fore masts, still visible above the surface, leaned heavily to port because of ballast that had shifted during the sinking. Vasa sank in full view of a crowd of hundreds, if not thousands, of mostly ordinary Stockholmers who had come to see the great ship set sail. The crowd included foreign ambassadors, in effect spies of Gustavus Adolphus' allies and enemies, who also witnessed the catastrophey.

The wreck was salvaged in 1961 after 333 years under sea.  The reconstructed vessel is 95% original.  I did my best to take some photos. If you make it to Stockholm, don’t miss this exhibit.   There is a great café to rest your laurels afterwards.

Before departing Stockholm, I make my way to Marushka’s.  This is Peppe’s daughters clothing store located in the main shopping district of Stockholm.  And yes, I contributed to her sales performance.  It was a must.

Shopping with Marushka

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The Royal Palace Stockholm & Evening Out to see Robert Welsh - June 12 2011

Just like the royals in London, the royals in Sweden have more the one residence.  Drottningholm which is just outside of Stockholm has been the monarch's personal residence since 1980. The  Royal Palce of Stockholm is the official residence of His Magestry the King of Sweden and a significant proportion of the King and Queens official entertainment functions take place in the large apartments.


Enjoy the photos of the Royal Guard which has been stationed at the Royal Palace since 1523. The military band marched through the city streets to the outer courtyard of the Palace. The performance included the changing of the guards.  After the changing of the guards, I spent the balance of the afternoon touring the castle. 


The tour is extensive and includes of course the crown jewels.  I recognize my brain is on overload and I can no longer appreciate any more art.  It is time for a break.  I investigate my options and find a spot at one of the plaza cafes where I can take in the scenery at my footsteps.  There is live music in the courtyard, clear blue sky and patrons lingering over latte’s, espresso's and cappacinno's.  Today was a perfect mix of a slow morning and an educational afternoon. 


Peppe and Elisabeth have invited me to meet them this evening at Engelen which I later learn is great spot for music and food.  When I arrive, there is a bat mobile parked in front of the restaurant.  Of course, every local and tourist is snapping pictures.  As for me, I want a picture with the boy band that seems to have a connection to the bat-mobile.  In all my shyness, I ask one of the bad boys what’s the story.  Come to find out a) he designed and made the bat mobile and 2) he is scheduled to be on Jay Leno.  I need to google and dig deeper, but not today. 

I actually thought I was meeting my new friends and their friend for dinner.  However, I learn that Engelen is having their opening concert marking the arrival of mid-summer.  For those music fanatics,  Robert Welsh is headlining (pianist/keyboardist extraordinaire) and it is the hot ticket in town  This is a small venue as you will see from the pics.  The energy was high and everyone was ready to rock & roll.  I rocked out with the rest of them and finally rolled home around 11:30 after being there since 6:30.  I confess, I did not have the energy for one more set after the days excursions.

Nite Nite

Changing of the Royal Guards

Interior of the Royal Chapel

Who are these charactors in front of the Bat Mobile

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Romantic Stockholm - June 11

It was another early call this morning.  My flight to  Stockholm leaves at 8:35, so I need to be on my way by 6am to catch the bus to the airport. I head out, catch the bus and the trip to Stockholm is smooth.  My seat mate on the plane is Finnish.  He is on his way to a hand ball tournament in southern Sweden.  I no nothing about hand ball, but it is a popular sport here and is played in the Olympics.  He use to play, then referee and now I guess he is responsible for the event.

I land safely. The trick now was to catch the Alanda Express to downtown, hail a cab and hope my room is ready.  As with the rest of my experiences, everything was clearly marked.  The cabs,  carry little money.  It is common to pay by credit cards.

My hotel location is great.  The room is clean but compact.  It is amazing what they can engineer into one small box. This is where packing light pays huge dividends.  I am excited as I will be touring with friends of friends today....so basically a tour through the eyes of a local.  You will meet Peppe and Elisabeth in the photos.  Peppe is Swed and lived in Newport for I believe 10 years.  Elisabeth is Fin, but has lived in Sweden since the age of 9.

I learn that the Nordic countries are considered Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland.  But Scandanavian countries are only Norway Sweden and Denmark.  I sense from my adventures today, that Finland is somewhat of an outcast.

It was a full day once again.  First stop was Milles Gardens. Carl Milles, (June 23, 1875–September 19, 1955) was a renowned sculptor.  He and his wife, Olga purchased property on Herserud Cliff on Lidingö, a large island near Stockholm. Millesgarden was built there between 1906 and 1908 as the sculptor's private residence and workspace. Milles sailed to the US in the early 40's.  His commisioned work can be observed throughout the US in cities such as Bloomfield, Dallas, St. Louis, and Harrisburg.   My suggestion is google Carl Milles or the Milles Garden.

Poseidon @  Milles Garden

After lunch we head to Drottningholm Palace.  The name Drottningholm (literally "Queen's Island") originated in the late 16th century, when King Johan III built the first Palace on this site, for his Consort, Queen Katarina Jagellonika.  The Palace was built in the 1600s and has been the home of The Royal Family since 1981. If you remember the movie "The Shining", the photo below was taken in the garden maze. 

Meet Elisabeth & Peppe

Drottningholm Palace

Enjoy

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Hello Helsinki June 9 - 10

What a remarkable city.  It is clean, vibrant and full of rich history.  A few factoids on Finland; From medieval times to 1809, Finland was part of Sweden.  In 1809, Sweden lost Finland to Russia.  In 1917, Finland won their independence from Russia. Russia attempted to invade Finland with the other Baltic states in the Winter War in 1939-1940 and the Continuation War from 1941 – 1944.  Finland was successful in maintaining their independence while the other Baltic States continued under Russian rule.

As I meandered about the town, it was clear that this city prides itself on design and fine food.  If you are a foodie, you would love the breads, pastries, cheese, fresh fruits, vegetables and homemade sausages.  Are you hungry yet?  For whatever reason, the food simply tastes better on the palate then the US.   On every menu you will see reindeer.  It is common in Lapland which is north Finland.  I had it twice… filet of reindeer and smoked reindeer.  It was fabulous!  Sorry Rudolph. You will find a lot of coffee houses and sidewalk cafes. I was surprised to learn that Fins are one of the world’s third largest consumers of coffee.  And, they make a great cup. 

The Esplanade is their 5^th Avenue.  Lots of fine local shopping as well as the name brands of Louis V., etc. Stockmans, the local department store founded in 1862 is their Harrods.  The Esplanade also is home to Café Kappeli.  It is a happening spot.  In the summer across from the café there is a bandstand.  Music and entertainment is on stage during the summer. And, it is free.  It was hard to leave the Esplanade because it was so relaxing to just sit and let the time pass by.  However, I have some “must see” sites.

It will be again to lengthy to communicate in detail the walking tour.  So, if you’re interested, just enjoy the photos and the commentary on the photos.



The Lutheran Cathedral

Local Fin Farmers

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Hyde Park, Four Seasons, Harrods, Tower of London, Big Ben, Westminster Abby, London Eye - June 8th

OMG, what am I doing to myself.   I have not really adjusted to the time yet and have been waking up around 5am.  After coming in @ 1am and finally resting my head on a pillow @ 2am, it doesn’t take a genius to determine this is sleep deprivation.  I force myself to get some more shut-eye as today is a solid day of sight seeing.

Today I opt to walk through Hyde Park en route to the Four Seasons and Harrods.  The weather is cool and refreshing.  Deana, one more Four Seasons is checked off the list.  Service, as always is impeccable.   Being in retail real estate, I had to visit Harrods.  For those of you that do not know, this is the famous department store in London.  All I can say, is you could spend hours in the store.   Time is not on my side, so I make a quick spin and know I will see it again another day.

The Tower of London, Big Ben and Westminster Abby were the main sites I wanted to see in London. The highlight of the Tower of London is the viewing of The Crown Jewels and the Coronation Regalia.  The Crown Jewels have been on display since the 17^th century.  It is a “must do” if you are in London.  There was no photography allowed so you will have to google the jewels and just realize I saw them in person. 

Westminster Abbey is another great treasure.  It dates back to c960.  It is the traditional place of coranation and burial site of monarchs of the Commonwealth realms.  The most recent funerals were held at Westminster for Diana, Princess of Whales and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother.  This is also the Abbey where Prince William and Katherine were wed. To learn more about the tombs and past royal weddings google Westminster Abbey.   

I need to sign off. Enjoy the photo's. In Helsinki and I have a full day of sightseeing and shopping. 

Entry to Crown Jewel Exhibitin

London Eye

Westminster Abbey

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