December 30th - A Day of Relaxation

Today was a lazy day and there is not that much to report.  The plan is quite simple today.  No rushing around or sightseeing.  Just taking in the beauty that is bestowed in front of me.
My flight departs Taveuni for Nadi at 5:00pm.  So I have a full day to relax and, of course, squeeze in a Fijian massage. The price US was about $50.00 for a full hour and to top it off on the beach.

Marika was kind enough to take me to the airport. A relative of his passed away and the funeral services are on Saturday.  His wife and other children have already left to go to the village where the services will be held.  He really should have let me find other transportation but that would not have been his character.  I find out later that a Fijian funeral is a big deal and rich with traditional customs. I was told they would kill a cow and share it with the villagers.  On the Internet I read " traditional funerary customs include gift-giving, feasting, kava drinking, and observance of mourning restrictions. Favoring burial over cremation, they also erect elaborate and colorful cloth decorations over their graves."

Well, enough of that detail.  I arrive at the airport only to discover that my flight is delayed.  This is not unusual I learn from the manager of the Garden Island Resort.  He is there to pick up guests and has experienced this on multiple occasions. Without a car, I succumb to waiting it out and hoping the plane arrives. The upside is that I was able to chat it up with Mark and learn more about his family, living in Fiji, etc.  He's a great connection for Taveuni.

The plane finally arrives at 6:30 pm. Interestingly enough, I am not pissed off.  I  have nowhere to be and time on my hands.  It's Fijian time.  Island time. 

I have now arrived in Nadi and have checked into the Westin.  I regret ever leaving Taveuni. I didn't know what I had until I left it behind. Nadi is everything I read about on Trip Advisers.  A stopover for the outer islands.  If anyone just stays in Nadi, they have missed what the Fijian Islands are all about.  Not to say there are not nice places to go once you get out of the main town.  But the real experience is the outer islands.   Of course, if you prefer a lot of nightlife, lots of tourists and murky water then by all means stay in the Nadi area.  My sarcasm at its finest.  The Westin did upgrade me to an oceanfront room and the room is clean and pleasant.  So I am really not complaining...I just want to go back to Taveuni where its lets populated, peaceful, rugged and exquisitely beautiful.

Pati

Fantasy Island - Boss "The Plane The Plane"

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Thursday Dec 29th 2012 - A Trip to the Cattle/Horse Ranch

Oh my goodness.  What an adventure today.  Marika and his two daughter Asenaca and Meme picked me up around 10:00am to begin our tour to the other side of the island. Our first stop was to look at a residential developement called Taveuni Estates.  The location is spectacular with the most breathtaking views of the ocean and sunsets.  I saw two outstanding lots of an acre each for around $103,000US.  Only two beachfront lots exist for $500-600,000 based  on their location.  Very tempting.  You can build a home for about $200,000 subject to what you are looking to build.  Associations dues for maintaining roads, etc.  is $1,000US per year.
Anyone interested in putting a partnership together??  hmmmm

We left the developement and headed to our final destination, the cattle ranch.  The trip was enhanced by Marika taking the scenic coastal route.  It was, of course, a dirt road (you need a truck, jeep and four wheel drive) bumpy and fun.  I felt like I was in an Indiana Jones movie.  The coastline is rugged but dotted with unspoiled beaches and rich with vegetation.  I did my best to capture the scenery. 

The drive was probably close to 45 minutes, but we finally reach the 1500 acre ranch.  I am introduced to Marcus who runs the ranch with his father.  Our timing was amazing.  The ranch has about 1,000 head of cattle but it also has about 80 wild horses.  A couple has arrived today to buy two horses.  We head over to the coral to observe the ranch hands herd in the horses.  The couple narrow their selection to three horses which are herded into a smaller corral.  They pick the two that they want for their boys.  The rest was hard to watch.  These horses have been wild so they have never been touched or had a rope around their neck.  I had mixed emotions as they roped the horses for the first time.  I know they would be trained and the boys would love their animals.  But at the same time, I wanted them to break free and be free!  Just like me.. free!  The worst part was watching them hogtie the horses.  This was necessary because they were boarding a boat to cross the strait to another island.  I told  the owner take good care of the horses.  He probably thought I was nuts but assured me they would be well cared for.  After the spectacle is over we head back.  I rest for the balance of the day and meet Marika and his daughter for dinner.  We had some great pizza overlooking the azure ocean. 

As we left the restaurant, I looked up at the sky.  The stars were amazingly bright and filled the sky. Then I peered out at the ocean and watched the cresent moon shimmer across the water.  It was a fine way to end the day. 

The wild horses

The dirt road we travelled on to the cattle/horse ranch

The Catholic Church outside of town

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Wednesday Dec 28th - A Tour to the Waterfalls

Today Marika and his eldest daughter Asenaca (she is 18) pick me up to visit the waterfalls.  There is one main road on Tavueni.  The road does not go all around the island nor is it paved all the way.  The journey to the waterfall is a beautiful but long drive.  I guess it may of taken us at least 1 1/2 hours. The area is unspoiled, undeveloped and inhabited only by the local native villagers.  After we pass the small development occupied by expats, it is nothing but tropical jungle and small settlements of the local natives.

We pass a small group of boys that have sarongs on.  Asenaca informs me that these boys have been recently circumcised.  They are headed to the ocean to help with the healing.  The culture here is to circumcise between the ages of 6-8 and in some cases as old as 10. 

We arrive in Lavena which is where the road ends and where we start our coastal walk to Wainibau Falls. This three-mile (one way) hike passes through the village of Lavena, and after a steep climb at the end, emerges the Wainibau Falls. You can jump in the river and swim up to the falls.  And, if you are brave enough hike up to the top of the falls and jump into the pool of water. The trail hugs the coast for a considerable distance where there are several fine, secluded beaches. The Return to the Blue Lagoon was filmed in this area.

It is the rainy side of the island and we encounter the warm tropical rain as we get deeper into the hillside.  Is was invigorating!  The closer we get to the waterfall, the more it begins to rain.  I learn that this is their rainy/hurricane season.  High season with sunshine all the time is April through July. By the time we finish the hike, I am drenched.  It was well worth it.  Both Asenaca and I are starved.  She missed breakfast and says she could eat a whole chicken.  I had breakfast, and I could eat a half a chicken.  We stop at Audrey's Bakery who is an expat from Sacramento and bakes for a living.  She settled here 23 years ago.  I guess her age to be early 70's now.  I learned about her from Brother Jack.  We make this our final stop as there is no roadside restaurant to grab a bite.  A little desert will work to reward us for a good hike.  It was fabulous...chocolate coconut bars and pineapple coconut cake!  Yum Yum for the Tum Tum.

Enjoy the photos

The dirt road leading us to Lavena

Kids carring taro root on the coastal path

Me and Asenaca crossing the suspension bridge - no more than 10 persons at one time

Wainibau Falls

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Tuesday, Dec 27th - A Visit to Rabi Island

The adventure begins with a visit to Rabi Island.  Marika had business over on the island so he invited me to jump on board for the ride over.  Before we headed to the boat, we pick up a few of his associates that will be making the trip.  Marika is a church leader with the Morman church.  We pick up Brother Jack and Brother Alfred along with two others. Unfortunately, I have a brain fade on their names.  All are very warm and welcoming.  Brother Jack and his wife are visiting missionaries from Utah.  Their mission is for 18 months and they have been here 15 months.  I am not sure I could spend that amount of time on the island. 

The boat ride is a smooth crossing which takes about 45 minutes.  The boys head off for their meeting and I am left to walk around the island.  With camera in tow, I head down the dirt path to see where it will lead and who I may meet. For some this may be a little unnerving.  But you should look at this as taking a walk around your neighborhood and saying hi or in Figian "Bula" to your fellow neighbors.

There is no stress here or even where I am staying - Taveuni.  The land has been given to the decedents and it is passed down through the generations.  As they grow, their village grows.  They help each other build their respective houses.  So unlike us, there is no mortgage, property tax, etc.  Water is great and plentiful (Fiji water- that's what I drink at home).  You can hook up for a cost of $200.  The island has a generator.  No electricity bill.  There is little to do, so transportation is minimal.  You walk or take the one bus that goes from point A to point B.  As I reflect, I don't recall seeing any cars on Rabi.  In addition, everyone grows fruits and vegetables. The papayas grow wild along the side of the roads and they are free to take.  Imagine that.

I love the laughter of kids and you can't help notice and hearing the commotion of them playing nearby.  These cute kids are playing outside of the villages community center.  As they are playing outside, their parents are inside (the place was packed inside).  I take a peak inside to see what is going on.  They look like they are being schooled so I quietly walk away not to disturb their meeting. 

On the way back from my walk, a couple befriends me and invites me to take a seat on their porch.  They are delighted to converse with me.  From her I learn what is happening at the community center.  The culture, heritage and family decedents are a very important part of their lives.  Every year the different villages host their family reunions. If they have left the island for work, they return for the reunion. It is important that the family members including children know their lineage.  A reunion can be a week long event.  They will sleep in the community center...on the floor or camp on the grounds next to the center.  Wow!  We talk about education and children.  She opens a photo book and shows me pictures of her family.
They wash by hand and line dry their clothes.  I tell her we are very spoiled in America.  She says no you are 'lucky'.  She is right we are lucky.

That evening Marika invites me to his home for dinner.  Their family was so happy to have me.  There was sausage, chicken curry, potatoes, yams, carrots and noodles. They are 'good' people with kind hearts. They tell me to come anytime as they know the food is expensive at the hotel.  They even had offered for me to stay with them.

Dinner at Marika's home. 

About Rabi (pronounced Rambi)
The island is covered with natural vegetation and an abundance of coconut trees. Prior to the Banabans settlement on Rabi in 1945 the island was used as a copra (coconut oil) plantation.

Rabi Island is self-governed by its own elected Council of Leaders and Elders and is a privately owned community within Fiji itself. The language spoken on the island is Gilbertese and the customs and traditions of the Banabans are still practiced today. The Banabans live in four major villages on the protected Fiji side of the island. The four villages and their occupants are the survivors and descendants from the same four villages that were destroyed by the invading Japanese forces back on their homeland island of Banaba/Ocean Island.

Brother Jack, Marika, Brother Alfred

The beautiful children of Rabi

Typical housing

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Arrival - Taveuni Fiji

Dec 24^th, 2011

It’s hard to believe that I am embarking upon a three month journey.  Fiji, New Zealand then Australia.  I spent quality time with my family over Thanksgiving (16 of us), so there is no guilt about missing Christmas.  Strange for some of you I know, but we all should follow our heart which is what I am doing.

The flight to Fiji was almost 11 hours. We departed LAX late so I missed my connection from the main island, Nandi, to Taveuni.  It was a bummer because there are only two flights per day.  One at 6:45am and one at 3:15pm.  I obviously was jet lagged and couldn’t wait to crash.

When I arrive in Taveuni, I was picked up by Marika and his wife.  They are native Figians who were introduced to me by my pal, Harry from my coffee cluck @ Kean.  What a great couple and how blessed am I that Harry made the connection for me. You will learn more about this family later. I am scrabbling to get this blog out as Marika is picking me up at 8am to head to one of the islands.  I am totally in their hands which is very cool.  Have a great day and I will catch up with you later.

The pictures in below.  Garden Island Resort at dusk.  View of my rooom.  Taveuni Airport.  A few of the islands flyin in the peddle jumper from Nandi to Tavueni. These pics ar efrom my cell so no picture link today.